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Brew Pubs Today: The Revival Of A Proud American TraditionKeith Tomlinson
Remember the one-on-every corner dimly lit brew pub or tavern,
beer-soaked carpeting and Joe the Bartender, a long row of
customers with their glasses of watery mass-produced beer, all
staring at a flickering television? Versions of these drinking
establishments certainly still exist but their heyday as the
gathering place of choice is over. In fact this rather
depressing era was only a hiatus in America's rich brew pub
history.
In 1634 the Puritans licensed the first brew pub in New England
with ale brewed on the premises. Their idea was to steer
drinkers away from the higher alcohol content of rum and
whiskey. During this period, they also passed legislation
ensuring the quality of the product. This tradition of local
beer brewing paired with brewing excellence continued until the
time of prohibition in the 1920's. European immigrants were the
driving force behind this tradition, not only in transporting
time-honored recipes and methods, but also in flavoring the
atmosphere of their taverns with the customs and décor of their
home countries. The Dutch and the English, then the Germans in
the 19th century brought the family atmosphere of the old world
to their adopted land.
Post-prohibition, the traditions and style of immigrant brewing
were disappearing. By the end of the 1970's only light lager was
selling in any significant volume, driven by big business
marketing campaigns. At that point there were only 44 breweries
in the United States. Yet a movement was on the way that would
reverse this trend.
In the 1970's people were traveling in great numbers. It was the
in thing to do and Europe was the inexpensive destination. These
travelers returned to America with a taste for real beer and an
appreciation of quaffing in agreeable, charming surroundings.
With a sneer of disapproval at the state of watering holes in
their native land, many opened their own breweries and brew pubs
in the European style. In 1982 U.S. legislation finally allowed
food to be served in breweries and the brew pub was 'reborn'.
Our brew pubs today represent a resurgence of tradition and
ambience reminiscent of earlier times. As beer is once again
brewed on the premises or in partnership with microbreweries,
twinned with pubs in which to serve their products, brew pubs
have taken new pride, not only in the beverages they create but
also in the brew pub venue itself. No longer supplied by
wholesalers of mass-produced products, these are generally
owner-operated businesses with a reputation to protect.
The European beer garden was and is an oasis in working life, a
neighborhood gathering focal point offering more than just a
place to drink beer. This healthy, social atmosphere is
reflected in the modern brew pub. Polished mirrors, exposed
beams, glasses and bottles proudly displayed, revolving ceiling
fans, and menus full of imaginative twists on traditional pub
fare - the modern brew pub is a showcase for the brewery's
products.
If you find yourself in the position of a stranger in a strange
town, dropping in to your neighborhood brew pub might be the
answer. Here is a social setting ideal for meeting the locals,
playing a game of darts and sampling fine quality beers, ales
and ciders. If you are traveling with the family, by-pass the
fast food chains and seek out the local brew pub. Many are
family run and family friendly, reasonably priced with an
emphasis on responsible enjoyment, and with food a cut above the
cardboard box brigade. Operating as restaurants, brew pubs
rarely have an age restriction.
Some of you may remember George Orwell's famous review of his
favorite public house, "The Moon under Water". Though completely
fictional, he describes with affection the ten best qualities of
the place, from the ornamental mirrors behind the bar to the
sound of children's laughter. Says Mr. Orwell, "If you are asked
why you favour a particular public house, it would seem natural
to put the beer first, but the thing that most appeals to me
about "The Moon under Water" is what people call its
"atmosphere". Given the quality and ambience of today's brew
pubs, I believe George would be pleased.
About the author:
Keith Tomlinson is President of Excalibur Communications, the
company that created The Beer Home Page - Your Online Guide to
Great Brew Pubs and Beer Labels. He helps beer lovers to find
the best breweries worldwide. Discover the world of beer by
visiting http://www.thebeerhomepage.com
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